Harvest in Languedoc
September 2, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
Coaxed gently from vines -
For a pressing appointment -
To release Sunshine -
A cloudy day, Perhaps all the sun is in the grapes – waiting now for the bottles on shelves.
Haiku – An Alchemy of Sun
September 1, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
Sunshine harvesters -
Turn Gold into Languedoc wine -
The Days are shorter -
We hear the grape harvesting machines and the presses from the local winery start at 4 in the morning. A gently thrum while we dream. Soon we can release the captured sunshine from the bottles and make winter dissolve.
Grasp the Morning Sun
August 31, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
The end of August -
Sun in my eyes as I drive-
I smell the harvest -
Driving Mimi to the station in the early morning, the sun is lower now and the warm fields plush with grapes are a heady perfume
Balade in Languedoc
June 5, 2010 by tony · 2 Comments
We live in the heart of Languedoc in Southern France. Our village is called Montblanc. This is slightly confusing as, although the village is on a hill it certainly is not mountain and must not be confused with the white snow capped towering peak of Mont Blanc in the Alps which is about 5 hours drive away. Another slight confusion is the brand of pens, watches and luxury items named Montblanc – it means I could not register the Internet site, although I have secured the name for some places like Twitter.
Montblanc is surrounded by vineyards, in fact we are in the center of the largest area of vineyards in France, some say the largest area of vines in the world. Good wine needs sun, soils and water and Languedoc is an oenological haven. But before the vineyards expanded in the 19th century, sheep farming was dominant, hundreds of thousands of sheep moved from the coastal plains of Languedoc up to the higher grass of the plateaux every year. But you can’t enjoy a good glass of wool, so I prefer the vineyards.
Thanks to a Mr Napoleon, French farming is still an small family operation, thousands of small units, most are less than 75 acres and this is usually in a lot of small parcels of land. So not only are we surrounded by thousands of acres of vineyards, we have hundreds of local wine producers supplying and making wine. Some are good and some are not so good and some are superb. With each producer making several different wines each year, the choice is wondrous.
Right in the middle of our village, by the crossroads just up from the cafe is Domaine Les Prunelles – this is about 200 yards from our house Villa Roquette – they offer a good selection of wines costing from under 2 euro a litre to a top price of 11 euro a bottle.
The vingneronne (a person who cultivates the vines and who also makes this into their own wines) also organises a series of walks, suppers and jazz evenings at their classic wine domain – this year they have ten of these special animations and on Friday morning I went for a stroll (a balade) into the countryside with a group of 20 other local people.
There was a 15 euro subscription which included two refreshment stops with unlimited wine, fresh ham, cold meats, cheese, foie gras, tapinade and on our return a full lunch with more unlimited wine, local sausage etc etc and more wine. At each rest, sitting under olive trees with the Mediterranean on one side and the mountains of central France on the other, we were entertained by a conteuse – Virginie Lagarde is a professional storyteller, we heard six folk tales of mystery, magic and mayhem told with grace and charm.
All through July and August the Domain des Prunelles is offering their Balades Vigneronnes and Soiree a Themes.
Summer arrives in Villa Roquette
May 22, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
Unusually, today I have done nothing at home in Villa Roquette – I should be concreting,plumbing, tiling, painting as well as writing blog posts, advertising, marketing, in addition to researching properties and creating new websites – but, I have just sat down, put my feet up and done – nothing – diddly squit – until now as I am obviously writing about doing nothing which is something I suppose.
My excuse is that yesterday I set, mixed and laid a few tons of concrete for the new apartment terrace, I got carried away as it was such a great day and just kept on ’till I ran out of gravel, so today I have done nothing ![]()
It has been a good day for doing nothing, hot, calm, dry and sunny – a perfect day in the South of France – our guests are charming and have also done nothing, jut relaxing by the pool, Miranda and Jack have done nothing as well, just getting a tan – Carole of course has been working hard bringing cups of tea and feeding us all.
So now for the summer – can I manage a few months of this, mix a little concrete, feed the fish, walk the dogs – yes, I think I can.
So now to get ready for the winter – I will be marketing long winter breaks in our apartments, or our B&B at super fantastic special rates. We had a smashing couple for three months last winter and it would be great to share out home again with long-stay guests from October through to April (or longer – whatever) – the (very important) central heating operates fine – and winter barbecues or Carole’s great Table d’Hôte meals are wondrous with the local good red wines.
Join us for baked oysters and Champagne on the terraces this Christmas
Property Prices in France
May 20, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
With a stronger dollar and a weaker euro, interest in buying a home in France is strong. For me, having lived here for 20 years, it is obvious that France, especially Southern France, is the best place to live.
If you are thinking about buying property in France then the first question is – how much does property cost in France. A better question, perhaps is – how much do homes sell for in France.
All French property is sold and valued by the area of usable living space in the main house, not garages or utility rooms, but main rooms, bedrooms, living rooms etc. This is shown as the price per square meter, it does not include the land or outbuildings. This habitable area is very precise and will be shown on the legal documents, tax assessments and all paperwork for a property. All property in France is sold through a Notaire and this price is reported and the cost per square meter is calculated from actual sales made.
There are now a number of websites offering help for you to find the price of French real estate. I have written about pap.fr before they have search form you can identify the cost paid per square meter.
On Facebook today I discovered from a really good blogger PollyVousFrancais another really slick site http://www.meilleursagents.com/ – it even has a mobile app wher you can point your phone at some proeprties in France and get the price properties have sold for in that location.
It is important to stress that these are not valuation or even estimates of the price of a specific property in France – but aggregated figures on historical sales.
The two sites above are OK for a quick snapshot of price indication, but If you are thinking of buying property in France do some deeper research into trends from sites like….
Immoprix
Paris Notaires
National Institute of Statistics and Economic studies
Notexpert
Other sites good for researching data on properties and places in France include….
http://www.lescommunes.com/
http://www.fallingrain.com/world/FR/
The botom line is that any property is only worth what someone is prepare to pay for it – but don’t make the mistake of comparing prices in other countries with prices in France.
New Elephant Sightings in Languedoc
May 17, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
In two hundred and frozen to death BC an ambitious African general decided to make a visit to Rome, being a sensible chap he came through the South of France and dallied in Languedoc (I was going to write languished in Languedoc, but he probably did a bit of dallying – he brought him mum with him anyway).
Our hero, Hannibal, for reasons best known to himself also brought along in his baggage train (definitely not with RyanAir, the excess baggage would have been bad news) 37 African War Elephants – these are smaller than the plains elephants and were thought to be extinct.
It seems some of these small war elephants escaped and made their home in the fields and forests of Languedoc – although they were bred as war elephants, it seems that there was a strong pacifist element, a sort of Toc-H gene, which enabled them to hide very successfully.
However, recent sightings are proving that there are still some of these pacifist pachyderms living in the garrigue around us in Herault, central Languedoc. But as they are very shy, and can climb trees, this is proving difficult to verify – I am certain they are here as I am finding increasing amounts of, what was thought to be, bulls**t everywhere, which in fact is elephant dung – this can be very dangerous if you are standing under a tree in which the elephants are roosting.
I would be most grateful if any local readers can keep their eyes peeled for elephant sightings in Languedoc, it helps to have several bottles of local wine with you and to sip regularly from these as it assists the sightings.
I am trying to get some photos for my blog on Twiku.com
Buying a Home in Herault Languedoc France
May 6, 2010 by tony · 2 Comments
When we moved to France 20 years ago my passport said I was a photographer – although I have done many, many things in my life, this is the only thing I actually have paper qualifications to do so it’s what I put on my passport application forms years ago.
I planned to have courses from our home here in Languedoc from Nizas teaching Zone System photography, but we migrated into other rentals and property businesses and I only ever ran two workshops, I ended up as a real estate agent – strange how life moves your paths.
I still hope to return to, what is now very old-fashioned, black and white chemical photography, working with techniques now over 150 years old, but ‘needs must as the devil drives’, and my immediate plan is to offer real-estate services again from June here in the South of France.
Today I replied to an email from one of my newsletter readers, I am publishing it here as it may be useful for others thinking or planning to buy a property in this region, Languedoc – the department of Herault (34) in Languedoc, Southern France…..
==
Hi
Your plan to find a home seems sound and clearly you have thought through some of the factors you wish for in a property – I will comment on them here in a sort of “stream of consciousness”.
Renting a place for a while while you look is very sensible – we rented for 4 years when we moved to France and I spent most of that time looking hard at what there was, understanding the life we were moving to and adjusting my plans (and altering my own lifestyle and aims in life) – I do not believe it is possible, unless you are mega-rich, to bring a way of life along with your suitcases when you move to France – Paris and some places on the Riviera are exceptions as it is possible to move and live there for years and cocoon yourself in a bubble of ex-pat lifestyles masquerading as the ‘real France’ – but in Herault, the local culture is strong and you must absorb the values they offer or live in isolation.
To rent a furnished 2 bed home for around 700 euro a month is possible, but will be very difficult to find in Herault – most will be unfurnished and on a minimum one year lease (although you can cancel with three months notice, the landlord cannot) – agents and landlords will usually demand a lot of guarantees and references. There are holiday villas which could be rented for the winter perhaps – but add the cost of heating and services
To buy a property outside a town or village will be much harder to find as there are not many – they were never built – but modern developments on the edge of villages are everywhere – it is a local policy to build new developments around every town and village in Herault and there are a lot of nice properties being constructed aimed at the French market and attracting people to move here from all over France – there is also an increase in business and industry in most places – this is partly to exploit the fantastic road, rail and air network which makes Languedoc, in many ways, the true center of Europe. wherever you rent, make sure there is good central heating, winter here is a misery without it or very expensive if you have electric radiators.
To buy – some properties in the countryside are being renovated from old farm buildings, these are in big demand and can be bought ‘cheaply’ (under 200,000 is possible, under 100,000 is much harder) but the cost of renovation of these stone buildings is astronomical. A contractor will cost from 5,000 euro a square meter to renovate and the cost can easily be as high as 15,000 euro a square meter (compare this to the purchase price which is around 1,800 to 3,000 euro a square meter) – this is more than double the value of the property and you end up with a place worth perhaps 300,000 euro which has cost you 750,000 euro – be very very careful with ‘projects’ in France, casual labor costs up to 50 euro per hour – illegal workers can be brought in for as little as 15 euro per hour, but in nearly every case the tradesman at 50 euro is cheaper in the long run.
Renovating yourself saves on labour costs – the learning curve for the traditional trades is steep – putting a window in an old stone house can mean shifting 15 tons of rock and reinforcing a couple of hundred tons of wall with girders (I know, I have done exactly this which took 2 weeks labour for one window which in the UK would have been an afternoons work) – the end result will usually be a compromise as houses in the countryside of this part of France needing this sort of renovation costing about 200,000 euro were not built as comfortable places suitable for modern living, but mostly as dwellings for farm workers or temporary homes due to the transhumance of the sheep in Summer to higher pastures (hundreds of thousands of sheep were moved to the plateaus every year from this area, wine growing as the dominant industry is relatively (19th century) recent. In fact tourism is the main ‘industry’ of this region.
I understand your preference for the countryside – village houses are always cramped, in narrow streets and with rarely any outside space at all – unless you are paying well over 350,000 euro for a “Maison de Maitre’ which will need as much spending again for renovation, these village homes are very charming to visit for a few weeks as they reinforce the comfort and convenience of your own home with a garden, kitchen with a window and warm bedrooms – anywhere in summer in Southern France is delightful, even an old unconverted barn, winter is something else.
At your budget, in Herault, you are much more likely to find a property with some space and possible a courtyard in a village, although not much outside land or garden, they do exist. They are more likely to be in the higher, more remote parts of the department – many village properties will offer a plot of land for gardening outside the village, although these are getting harder to find now.
As you are not into quaint and historical – think about building new – building costs are from 2,000 euro per square meter and a plot of land with services from 120 euro per square meter – this would typically be on the edge of a village as the land has to be ‘zoned’ for building – all villages are extending these zones and a lot of new land is being offered – but this would be on a new development of similar houses.
Finding a plot in the countryside is difficult, there is a big demand and not much on offer – you can look for an existing run-down habitation and then try for planning to ‘develop’ it (expanding new and keeping the original perhaps as a garage – but this is hard to get. Never think of buying before all agreements and planning permissions are in place
It is possible to find the ‘right’ home within your parameters – it takes a lot of local knowledge, time and luck, so if you are budgeting to rent and look hard, especially over the winter months when things are more ‘dormant’, everything is possible (perhaps).
As for rented accommodation, all I can suggest at present is to rent an apartment in our place, on a 3 month (or longer, up to 6 months) let from October/November we can five a special winter only offer our ‘Rose’ apartment for 900 euro a month all inclusive (heating aircon etc – the central heating is essential from November to March at least). We will also have a smaller apartment ‘Quince’ available then at 650 euro a month.
http://villaroquette.com/apartments/rose-apartment/
I am registering (again) as an Estate agent from June this year and have a number of unlisted properties to offer already – I am not opening yet another ‘shop’ – but offering my local knowledge, experience and Internet services, including some new ‘search and identify’ facilities. I am going back into this business and will be working hard to offer a fair and honest service which brings together my experience of Internet services and 20 years of local knowledge and living in France.
Alas I will not have time to use ‘wet plate’ techniques to photograph the properties and print on platinum papers and I will try to curb the urge to photograph every room with a 14mm lens – but I will discover new places and meet interesting people and, hopefully, earn a living.
Write to me with as much information and your thoughts so I can begin to ‘profile’ your wishes and send you information.
Hope to see you later this year
Tony
==
On the Trail of Pilgrims in Languedoc
May 1, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
For centuries the aim of many Christians has been to make a pilgrimage to Compostela in Spain – over hundreds of years, millions of people have traveled by foot along tens of thousands of miles of tracks and paths through Europe to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of the apostle Saint James are buried.
A great many of these routes – nearly always off the old Roman and main roads – crisscross the landscape of Languedoc in Southern France.
All along these routes a huge service industry evolved and today I still see earnest looking pilgrims with floppy hats tied on with string and a sturdy stick to support them, striding up ancient, carefully restored, pathways in the middle of nowhere.
Languedoc has many chapels, priories, churches and other historic buildings which are still the target for travelers. Many are on sites which have been important habitations for thousands of years. These sites offered security, shelter and sustenance although today they are often remote from the main roads and large towns – which is probably why they were safe in the first place and why they have survived, often intact.
An interesting site about an hour from us in Montblanc is the Priory St Michel de Grandmont , built on the site of far older beliefs and cultures, it offers the visitor a glimpse of life as a medieval monk?
The lotus in the Hills of Languedoc
May 1, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
In the hills above Lodeve, Languedoc France, a golden temple has been built – I visited Lerub Ling with a group of journalists as part of our exploration of the region.
I was not allowed to take photos inside the building so can only show a few snaps of the outside on a cold and wet day in April.
The overall impression I had was of that the place was empty of any true values. like the gold leaf covering most of the surfaces, a thin and frail glitter masked the truth, everywhere.


