Balade in Languedoc
June 5, 2010 by tony · 2 Comments
We live in the heart of Languedoc in Southern France. Our village is called Montblanc. This is slightly confusing as, although the village is on a hill it certainly is not mountain and must not be confused with the white snow capped towering peak of Mont Blanc in the Alps which is about 5 hours drive away. Another slight confusion is the brand of pens, watches and luxury items named Montblanc – it means I could not register the Internet site, although I have secured the name for some places like Twitter.
Montblanc is surrounded by vineyards, in fact we are in the center of the largest area of vineyards in France, some say the largest area of vines in the world. Good wine needs sun, soils and water and Languedoc is an oenological haven. But before the vineyards expanded in the 19th century, sheep farming was dominant, hundreds of thousands of sheep moved from the coastal plains of Languedoc up to the higher grass of the plateaux every year. But you can’t enjoy a good glass of wool, so I prefer the vineyards.
Thanks to a Mr Napoleon, French farming is still an small family operation, thousands of small units, most are less than 75 acres and this is usually in a lot of small parcels of land. So not only are we surrounded by thousands of acres of vineyards, we have hundreds of local wine producers supplying and making wine. Some are good and some are not so good and some are superb. With each producer making several different wines each year, the choice is wondrous.
Right in the middle of our village, by the crossroads just up from the cafe is Domaine Les Prunelles – this is about 200 yards from our house Villa Roquette – they offer a good selection of wines costing from under 2 euro a litre to a top price of 11 euro a bottle.
The vingneronne (a person who cultivates the vines and who also makes this into their own wines) also organises a series of walks, suppers and jazz evenings at their classic wine domain – this year they have ten of these special animations and on Friday morning I went for a stroll (a balade) into the countryside with a group of 20 other local people.
There was a 15 euro subscription which included two refreshment stops with unlimited wine, fresh ham, cold meats, cheese, foie gras, tapinade and on our return a full lunch with more unlimited wine, local sausage etc etc and more wine. At each rest, sitting under olive trees with the Mediterranean on one side and the mountains of central France on the other, we were entertained by a conteuse – Virginie Lagarde is a professional storyteller, we heard six folk tales of mystery, magic and mayhem told with grace and charm.
All through July and August the Domain des Prunelles is offering their Balades Vigneronnes and Soiree a Themes.
Summer arrives in Villa Roquette
May 22, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
Unusually, today I have done nothing at home in Villa Roquette – I should be concreting,plumbing, tiling, painting as well as writing blog posts, advertising, marketing, in addition to researching properties and creating new websites – but, I have just sat down, put my feet up and done – nothing – diddly squit – until now as I am obviously writing about doing nothing which is something I suppose.
My excuse is that yesterday I set, mixed and laid a few tons of concrete for the new apartment terrace, I got carried away as it was such a great day and just kept on ’till I ran out of gravel, so today I have done nothing ![]()
It has been a good day for doing nothing, hot, calm, dry and sunny – a perfect day in the South of France – our guests are charming and have also done nothing, jut relaxing by the pool, Miranda and Jack have done nothing as well, just getting a tan – Carole of course has been working hard bringing cups of tea and feeding us all.
So now for the summer – can I manage a few months of this, mix a little concrete, feed the fish, walk the dogs – yes, I think I can.
So now to get ready for the winter – I will be marketing long winter breaks in our apartments, or our B&B at super fantastic special rates. We had a smashing couple for three months last winter and it would be great to share out home again with long-stay guests from October through to April (or longer – whatever) – the (very important) central heating operates fine – and winter barbecues or Carole’s great Table d’Hôte meals are wondrous with the local good red wines.
Join us for baked oysters and Champagne on the terraces this Christmas
Pom Pom can get me into trouble
May 18, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
Soon after this post I am expecting a visit from some large men with sunglasses…..
We met and enjoyed lunch with an exceptional artist – now this is where I get into trouble on the Internet – he makes exquisite guns and I asked him to send me one, so he did, in the post.
I hasten to add, and I hope the security forces are reading this bit, is is a scale model of a Bofors anti-aircraft quad gun.
John Haynes is a world famous ship builder – his ships are wonderful scale models of the last 150 years of maritime history – his site is one of the most beautiful things I have seen for a long time https://www.johnrhaynes.com/index.html and (here we go again) the scale model of the 40mm Bofors gun is truly a work of art done by a master craftsman.
Museums and rich collectors own his ships and I strongly recommend a visit to his website – if I had the room (and money) I would cherish USS Gearing
Hope to blog tomorrow….be seeing you
Buying a Home in Herault Languedoc France
May 6, 2010 by tony · 2 Comments
When we moved to France 20 years ago my passport said I was a photographer – although I have done many, many things in my life, this is the only thing I actually have paper qualifications to do so it’s what I put on my passport application forms years ago.
I planned to have courses from our home here in Languedoc from Nizas teaching Zone System photography, but we migrated into other rentals and property businesses and I only ever ran two workshops, I ended up as a real estate agent – strange how life moves your paths.
I still hope to return to, what is now very old-fashioned, black and white chemical photography, working with techniques now over 150 years old, but ‘needs must as the devil drives’, and my immediate plan is to offer real-estate services again from June here in the South of France.
Today I replied to an email from one of my newsletter readers, I am publishing it here as it may be useful for others thinking or planning to buy a property in this region, Languedoc – the department of Herault (34) in Languedoc, Southern France…..
==
Hi
Your plan to find a home seems sound and clearly you have thought through some of the factors you wish for in a property – I will comment on them here in a sort of “stream of consciousness”.
Renting a place for a while while you look is very sensible – we rented for 4 years when we moved to France and I spent most of that time looking hard at what there was, understanding the life we were moving to and adjusting my plans (and altering my own lifestyle and aims in life) – I do not believe it is possible, unless you are mega-rich, to bring a way of life along with your suitcases when you move to France – Paris and some places on the Riviera are exceptions as it is possible to move and live there for years and cocoon yourself in a bubble of ex-pat lifestyles masquerading as the ‘real France’ – but in Herault, the local culture is strong and you must absorb the values they offer or live in isolation.
To rent a furnished 2 bed home for around 700 euro a month is possible, but will be very difficult to find in Herault – most will be unfurnished and on a minimum one year lease (although you can cancel with three months notice, the landlord cannot) – agents and landlords will usually demand a lot of guarantees and references. There are holiday villas which could be rented for the winter perhaps – but add the cost of heating and services
To buy a property outside a town or village will be much harder to find as there are not many – they were never built – but modern developments on the edge of villages are everywhere – it is a local policy to build new developments around every town and village in Herault and there are a lot of nice properties being constructed aimed at the French market and attracting people to move here from all over France – there is also an increase in business and industry in most places – this is partly to exploit the fantastic road, rail and air network which makes Languedoc, in many ways, the true center of Europe. wherever you rent, make sure there is good central heating, winter here is a misery without it or very expensive if you have electric radiators.
To buy – some properties in the countryside are being renovated from old farm buildings, these are in big demand and can be bought ‘cheaply’ (under 200,000 is possible, under 100,000 is much harder) but the cost of renovation of these stone buildings is astronomical. A contractor will cost from 5,000 euro a square meter to renovate and the cost can easily be as high as 15,000 euro a square meter (compare this to the purchase price which is around 1,800 to 3,000 euro a square meter) – this is more than double the value of the property and you end up with a place worth perhaps 300,000 euro which has cost you 750,000 euro – be very very careful with ‘projects’ in France, casual labor costs up to 50 euro per hour – illegal workers can be brought in for as little as 15 euro per hour, but in nearly every case the tradesman at 50 euro is cheaper in the long run.
Renovating yourself saves on labour costs – the learning curve for the traditional trades is steep – putting a window in an old stone house can mean shifting 15 tons of rock and reinforcing a couple of hundred tons of wall with girders (I know, I have done exactly this which took 2 weeks labour for one window which in the UK would have been an afternoons work) – the end result will usually be a compromise as houses in the countryside of this part of France needing this sort of renovation costing about 200,000 euro were not built as comfortable places suitable for modern living, but mostly as dwellings for farm workers or temporary homes due to the transhumance of the sheep in Summer to higher pastures (hundreds of thousands of sheep were moved to the plateaus every year from this area, wine growing as the dominant industry is relatively (19th century) recent. In fact tourism is the main ‘industry’ of this region.
I understand your preference for the countryside – village houses are always cramped, in narrow streets and with rarely any outside space at all – unless you are paying well over 350,000 euro for a “Maison de Maitre’ which will need as much spending again for renovation, these village homes are very charming to visit for a few weeks as they reinforce the comfort and convenience of your own home with a garden, kitchen with a window and warm bedrooms – anywhere in summer in Southern France is delightful, even an old unconverted barn, winter is something else.
At your budget, in Herault, you are much more likely to find a property with some space and possible a courtyard in a village, although not much outside land or garden, they do exist. They are more likely to be in the higher, more remote parts of the department – many village properties will offer a plot of land for gardening outside the village, although these are getting harder to find now.
As you are not into quaint and historical – think about building new – building costs are from 2,000 euro per square meter and a plot of land with services from 120 euro per square meter – this would typically be on the edge of a village as the land has to be ‘zoned’ for building – all villages are extending these zones and a lot of new land is being offered – but this would be on a new development of similar houses.
Finding a plot in the countryside is difficult, there is a big demand and not much on offer – you can look for an existing run-down habitation and then try for planning to ‘develop’ it (expanding new and keeping the original perhaps as a garage – but this is hard to get. Never think of buying before all agreements and planning permissions are in place
It is possible to find the ‘right’ home within your parameters – it takes a lot of local knowledge, time and luck, so if you are budgeting to rent and look hard, especially over the winter months when things are more ‘dormant’, everything is possible (perhaps).
As for rented accommodation, all I can suggest at present is to rent an apartment in our place, on a 3 month (or longer, up to 6 months) let from October/November we can five a special winter only offer our ‘Rose’ apartment for 900 euro a month all inclusive (heating aircon etc – the central heating is essential from November to March at least). We will also have a smaller apartment ‘Quince’ available then at 650 euro a month.
http://villaroquette.com/apartments/rose-apartment/
I am registering (again) as an Estate agent from June this year and have a number of unlisted properties to offer already – I am not opening yet another ‘shop’ – but offering my local knowledge, experience and Internet services, including some new ‘search and identify’ facilities. I am going back into this business and will be working hard to offer a fair and honest service which brings together my experience of Internet services and 20 years of local knowledge and living in France.
Alas I will not have time to use ‘wet plate’ techniques to photograph the properties and print on platinum papers and I will try to curb the urge to photograph every room with a 14mm lens – but I will discover new places and meet interesting people and, hopefully, earn a living.
Write to me with as much information and your thoughts so I can begin to ‘profile’ your wishes and send you information.
Hope to see you later this year
Tony
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Tourism in France and French Letters
May 1, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
I have just got back from the Bourse de Pliants in Montpellier – badly translated this an ‘exchange of leaflets’ organised by the regional tourist offices – yesterday was the press day with free drinks and a free lunch, so was very well attended (bless the press), over 700 press and trade visitors.
Over 200 stands were set up in the park of a Chateau in Montpellier and everyone had piles and piles of leaflets to hand out and distribute for all the offices of tourism and places like our Gîtes in Villa Roquette – there were leaflets and posters by the truckload – literally – half a car park was full of pallets of leaflets and fork lift trucks were needed to shift them. This was all in the open air so the obvious happened – it rained.
Tables groaning with hundreds of thousands of euro worth of soggy paper were everywhere.
Apart from paperwork, the other thing the French are master craftsmen at is talking – about themselves – the only dry place was a theater tent with a large group of besuited ‘experts’ talking about how they, and they alone, had the answer to tourism in the South of France – this attracted an audience of nearly two, until it rained more heavily and this audience nearly doubled.
I found the day very valuable, I discovered a lot of places in Languedoc which are amazingly beautiful, thousands of years of civilisation have created a heritage which is one of the richest in the world and I believe that, area for area The South of France has the greatest concentration of evidence of human civilisation of anywhere in the world (including China and India – they are big places).
The day also confirmed that the regional localisation of tourism (read town by town, even village by village) in France has made a complete mess of the information available. To illustrate this point a good example is our own Gîtes and B&B at Villa Roquette.
We are the closest B&B to one of the most important crossroads in France, close to the Mediterranean, ten minutes from Pezenas, the most beautiful and complete Medieval town in France, ten minutes from Agde – the second oldest town in france and ten minutes from Beziers, where the World heritage site, The Canal du Midi, was conceived – but can I put my brochures in any of these places with all the others offering accommodation – no – because our local tourist office is the “Pays du Thongue” (I bet you have never head of it) and the rule is you can only be represented by one tourist office – I have not even found out where this tourist office is and can only guess that the number of visitors asking for leaflets is a number probably less than one. I also would guess that they have received a pallet load of damp leaflets this week as they did not even have a table at the Bourse in Montpellier.
One of my many new projects on my “wish list” is to make a new website where I have compiled all the available leaflets about a region, structured them into interactive maps and then you can discover ALL the local places of interest, decide which you like and then print out the actual leaflet and assemble them into itineraries along with places to eat an sleep – not an advertising site and the aim is to include every place which has produced a leaflet which you can download.
Hurrah for the Hoopoe
March 18, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
At last – after a blooming cold winter, this morning Carole head the sound of the Hoopoe – each summer we welcome these outrageous birds to our garden, their distinctive call and crazy plumage are a delight. This morning is was admittedly more of a lower case “hoop – hoop”, probably saying why the hell did I leave Africa to come to the South of France, instead of “come on big boy, I’m waiting for you”.
They are happy birds, said to be bringers of good luck – a guide through difficulties – they are faithful and they are smelly.
Come on in Hoopoes, summer awaits you on Villa Roquette
Dolomites and Valentines
February 14, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
A beautiful sunny Sunday in Languedoc – we drove to a local beauty spot (with Carole my local beauty) Moreze – it is unique in Europe – if you know what a dolomite is then….
Mad March Days
February 7, 2010 by tony · 3 Comments
Our VillaRoquette January sale has ended, many guests took our special early bird offer and have booked our apartments or BandB for later this year – we still have most of March and April free so we are starting our March Sale for any booking made from now until the end of April at half price, subject to availability. Book with a deposit now and pay the balance on arrival.
Since writing this headline I have had the poem I remember from my first school buzzing in my head – I always recall the last verse as we said it loud in class – chanting it in a quick, staccato and finishing loudly with “Cheap Tin Trays”
Cargoes by John Masefield –
Quinquireme of Nineveh from distant Ophir
Rowing home to haven in sunny Palestine,
With a cargo of ivory,
And apes and peacocks,
Sandalwood, cedarwood, and sweet white wine.
Stately Spanish galleon coming from the Isthmus,
Dipping through the Tropics by the palm-green shores,
With a cargo of diamonds,
Emeralds, amethysts,
Topazes, and cinnamon, and gold moidores.
Dirty British Coaster with a salt-caked smoke stack
Butting through the Channel in the mad March days,
With a cargo of Tyne coal,
Road-rail, pig-lead,
Firewood, iron-ware, and cheap tin trays.
I can’t promise Apes or Peacocks, but Sweet White Wine is on the menu.
Mobile Phones In France
January 27, 2010 by tony · Leave a Comment
I get a lot of questions about bringing and using mobile phones from visitors to France – a website I have just found is JustLanded – it has, I believe, some good and relevant information about how to get connected and what works in France
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Montblanc Puzzle
December 30, 2009 by tony · Leave a Comment
If you are finding it hard to concentrate on work after Christmas and the new year – then what you need is a holiday.
What better than coming to stay with us in our Apartments or Bed and Breakfast in Montblanc.
To relax you and get you in the mood, here is a jigsaw puzzle of a typical street in our village……
Slide the pieces with your mouse….
Or click on the picture or link below….
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Montblanc street